![accu rip rail accu rip rail](https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-x07b7/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/2516/5105/KMA2675_Pic_4__56677.1408131551.jpg)
What I did is go to the metal store and buy a 20' piece, then I had them cut it to 9', 5', 3', 2', 1' lengths. I also have an assortment of 2" x 3/8" aluminum bars. If the edge of the plywood gets messed up, or if you are about to start a new project, just move the aluminum bar over 1/4" and re-cut the board. Now you can align that edge with your mark and you know exactly where the cut will be made. Run the saw along the bar and it cuts the plywood to the exact offset of the saw blade. I have an 8' shooter board made from 1/4" plywood with a 3/8" aluminum bar screwed onto it. My saws have a blade that is offset 5", exactly, from any fence that the saw is guiding from. If you are using an edge guide, it can grab and release and cause the saw to sort of jiggly-yaw around and gives a rough edge.ĥ. This is "directional instability" in nautical jargon. If it rests on top of some sort of guide, there is the possibility of wobble.Ĥ. If it slides directly on the board, that's good. But another form of wobble comes from what the shoe is resting on. It's the first thing I do when looking for a new saw.
![accu rip rail accu rip rail](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/XHMp-8pqW0w/maxresdefault.jpg)
Surprisingly few expensive saws even meet this requirement. The saw itself must all be tight and stiff.
![accu rip rail accu rip rail](https://i1.wp.com/toolguyd.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Kreg-Accu-Cut-Circular-Saw-Guide_6-e1496589484460.jpg)
Placing the saw on top of some sort of guide like this can exaggerate out-of-square errors.ģ. Making a cut, then turning one part over and placing the cut edges together will tell you how square you really are. It's hard to get them truly square because blade is small diameter and doesn't give you much to place your square against. A quality saw in good condition exhibits very little run-out.Ģ. This doesn't affect the straightness of the cut, but makes those ripply saw marks in your edge. I have found that there are multiple ways that the cut can get messed up:ġ. I've made cabinetry and retail store fixtures and on an on. I've cut plywood and laminates and slatwall, etc. Another thing in favor of using a track is that the base of the saw doesn't touch the stock, so there is no possibility of scratching veneer plywood and pre-finished material. The Rip-Cut edge guide has no splinter strip and requires one edge of the cut piece to already be straight. The edge guide will work but is a second-best solution to having a rail long enough to rip sheet goods with the Accu-Cut guide.
#Accu rip rail full#
I asked Kreg how they expected users to rip full sheets of material and was told they should use the company's Rip-Cut Edge Guide for that application. The tracks are 26 1/2" long and can be joined end-to-end for cuts up to about 53" long, a perfect length for cross cutting 4x8 sheet goods but not enough for ripping them. The first time you use it, the saw cuts through the splinter strip so from that point forward cuts can be quickly and easily aligned by placing the strip against the cut line marked on the material. As with other track saw systems, splinter strips along either edge of the rail greatly reduce chipping by bearing down on the material being cut.